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When curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. However, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family totally astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their small shop securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.